Red - Old World

Rhone Valley, France

$27-33

Wines like this remind me just how much I love Rhone wines.  These non-pretentious, solid and ruggedly tamed wines can be intoxicating. To me, these are reliable and earthy delights – polished, but with an honest and rustic patina.  This 100% Syrah is no exception – and a fantastic Crozes-Hermitage for the price.  Unmistakable cracked black pepper and wild raspberry aromas, and an exciting spicy palate of vibrant dark raspberry, cherry, pepper, salted meats, violet and sweet vanilla.  Concentrated, full bodied and fruit driven, with tannins grippy enough to stand up to that porterhouse tonight – no need to wait a few years.  Very well done and great value for price – an attractive, impressive Northern Rhone Syrah to drink now.  

In 1859, Christophe Ogier establishes a wine merchants company called Ogier & Fils, which was handed down to his son Antoine in 1895, with a name change to A. Ogier & Fils.    In 1948, the company morphed into that of a négociant-éleveur, buying grapes and wine from certain quality growers and crafting their own house cuvées from them.  

****  stars

By Treve Ring – online wine editor

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

*          Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

**       Good example of varietal type.  

***     Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

****   Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!

Cariñena, Aragon, Spain

$11-13

Earlier this month I wrote about a great value white that over delivers for price – and here’s a red counterpart. As much as people love to gripe about the BCLS, we have them to thank for making this value red a consistent bargain in BC.  This is a stellar everyday drinking wine – suitable for everything from burgers to pasta to pizza to poultry.  A perennial party and restaurant by-the-glass favourite, you can afford to buy this by the case.  Castillo de Monséran focuses on just one thing – Garnacha (aka Grenache) – so you have to figure they know their stuff. And they certainly do – fruity raspberry and peppery spice aromas lead to a medium bodied, old-world styled sipper of dusty raspberry, cedar, plum and black currant.  Nice balance and fresh finish – all this for approximately $11!

When I purchased this wine a couple of days ago, the clerk waxed poetic about the “Carinena” wine making up this bottle.  Yes, Carignan is a red wine grape popular in the south of France, but Cariñena is a region in Spain. An honest – and somewhat cute – mistake, and a great example of how a little knowledge can be a dangerous thing.

**  stars

By Treve Ring – online web editor

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

*          Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

**       Good example of varietal type.  

***     Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

****   Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!

Beaujolias, Burgundy, France

$14.35

Beaujolias Nouveau is always released worldwide on the third Thursday of November.  This seemingly strange ritual began over a century ago as a way for the French to have instant wines to celebrate the holidays with vineyard workers and their families – and to thank them for the recent harvest.  Unlike the vast majority of red wines, which take months from picking to completion, Beaujolais Nouveau uses carbonic maceration, resulting in fast, drinkable wine within weeks.  Th e grapes are always 100% Gamay, and though each vintage is different (the 2009 is said to be the finest in the past 50 years), the finished wine is always a light bodied, very fruity and fun, non-serious sipper.

The same goes for this year.  And this wine, by ‘The King of Beaujolais’ Duboeuf is exactly what one would expect.  The biggest surprise from Georges Duboeuf is what new label he is going to select for each Nouveau vintage.  Light hued and bodied, with candied gummy fruit aromas and crisp flavours of cherry, violets, dry raspberry and cinnamon.  Best drunk slightly chilled – an ideal accompaniment to a turkey-cran sandwich or as a pick me up after holiday shopping.

** and a half

By Treve Ring – EAT online wine editor

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

*          Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

**       Good example of varietal type.  

***     Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

****   Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!

Rioja Alavesa DOC, Spain

$24.99

Out of the dozens of wines I tasted at last weekend’s Cornucopia, this one stood out (the stars all over my tasting book are proof).  Great value found here in this 100% Tempranillo, crafted from vines averaging 40 years in age.

Aromas of spice, soft cinnamon, blackberry and a whiff of violets lead to smooth and lush dark berry, vanilla, and ripe plum, with a pleasing current of minerality throughout. Sophisticated and new-worldly styled Rioja.  With roasted pork loin sided with cherry compote, this will be a knockout.

Rioja Alavesa is the smallest of three sub-regions of Rioja region.  Its higher altitude and cooler temperature allows the grapes to achieve moderate acidity, and the soils of the vineyards are rich in clay and limestone, contributing to the mineral tones present in many of the wines from here.

***

By Treve Ring – EAT online wine editor

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

*          Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

**       Good example of varietal type.  

***     Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

****   Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!

Friuli – Grave – DOC

$19.99

I have a love/hate relationship with Cabernet Franc.  When the grape is treated gently – letting the spicy, herbal, bright fruit shine – I love.  But when, as is much more oft the case, the vintner throws a big stack of wood at it and turning it into a smoky firebomb – I hate. Thus, I’m always leary to try new Cab Francs – do I dare?  But this wine has restored my faith in this wonderful grape – for the time being at least – and while I can still find it on the shelves.  

The Armani family has been handcrafting wines in northeastern Italy for over 400 years, now encompassing large estates in Veneto, Trentino and Friuli. This Friulian Cab Franc – like its surrounding inhabitants – is proudly without compromise.  No oak bombs here.  Bright, pale red in hue, a spicy cherry nose entices to a medium bodied palate of raspberry, cassis, herbs, hay and white pepper.  Lovely finesse and balance – pair with roast poultry, game or sausages.  This grape thrives in the cool, marginal climate of Friuli.  If only BC winemakers would strive for Cab Franc with this finesse and honesty, as opposed to the hot, charred wines so many churn out.  For $20 – this is a steal.  Just don’t buy it all off our shelves before I get a chance to get some more.

*** and a half

- Treve Ring, online wine editor

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

*          Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

**       Good example of varietal type.  

***     Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

****   Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!

Costieres de Nimes AC, France

$18.99 BCLS

I love, love, love it when I find a wine that drinks way beyond its price point.  So I was pretty happy when I tried this little gem.  This blend of Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre and old vine Carignan is from the Southern part of the Rhône Valley, and the vineyards are a few short miles from the Rhône River.  The wine takes its name from the numerous galets – round, flat stones – that make up the terrain.  And the minerality of the region comes through in the flavours of this wine, along with aromatic ripe, dark fruit, waves of floral notes, cocoa and peppery spice.  

Nice acidity throughout with a full body and lingering and satisfying finish.  Tastes much more expensive than it is.  Lovely to drink now – especially with braised meats or sausages – but will continue to gain complexity over the next couple of years.  Bring on fall! ****

Reviewed by Treve Ring

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

*          Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

**       Good example of varietal type.  

***     Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

****   Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!

Jill Krauss from the Strath shares this favourite with EAT:

"I am on a huge Spanish wine kick right now and this one is truly exceptional. The Vilosell is a blend of Tempranillo, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah and it has a beautiful deep red color. The nose is full of black cherry, leather, and currents with fresh cherries, huckleberry, and chocolate on the palate. This is a rich and well structured wine that calls out for a nice grilled steak as we move closer to the end of summer. This guy retails for about $32.00."

The barbeque friendly weather has carnivores everywhere rejoicing. What’s tastier than a succulent piece of grilled red meat? Devouring it al fresco with a delicious bottle of wine. You can count on Italy for interesting finds at a great price. From the region of Marche, De Angelis’ Rosso Piceno blends Montepulciano with Sangiovese. Slightly earthy yet packed with fruit, this juicy red will wash down whatever meat hits your grill.

$14.99 (BC CSPC #632141)

Glenn Barlow of BC Liquor Guys recommends this wine from Spain, just in time for grilling season:

"Flavours of ripe cherry & berry, with black olive & tobacco leaf aromas that are super juicy on the palate. This one's a BBQ baby!"  $20, available at most liquor stores.

Kevin McKinnon of Marquis Wine Cellars pulls one of the shelf for us: "It’s not often that I call a $30.00 wine a deal, but this wine reinforces what I love about the wine industry.  Focussed and flavourful wines that over deliver on the nose and palate.  This 100% Tinto Fino (Tempranillo) spends 12 months in barrel.  There is a dark garnet colour that precursors all that is to come.  Waves of chocolate, vanilla, and black fruits aromas will tantalize your olfactory senses.  Next you will be hit with silky smooth tannins, refined layers of black fruit, oak and minerality. Well balanced with the perfect amount of acidity and a long memorable finish.  I can imagine this rich complex beauty going well with game dishes, tomato based dishes or even rack of lamb.  Salud!"  Available at Marquis Wine Cellars.

 

Gamey, earthy, plumy, however you call it, Le Paradou is just plain delicious. This juicy blend of Grenache and Syrah from the south of France, near Provence is estate grown from forty to sixty year old vines and never sees a lick of wood. Dense and full-bodied with sweet black fruit, spice and mineral flavours, a soft silky texture and a long sumptuous finish. Available at most private liquor stores for $16.00,       #12724

Michaela and Michelle of house wine pick this week's wine, an earthy red from Southern Italy.

The southern Italian region of Puglia gives us one of the best value reds for money currently on Liquor Store shelves. Tormaresca’s Paiara enhances indigenous grape Negroamaro with a touch of Cabernet Sauvignon for a very approachable glass (or two) of wine. Rustic and earthy with blackberry and exotic spice notes, it would pair marvellously with Lamb Tagine.

$11.99 (BC CSPC #378182)

Ceri Barlow from Zambri's picks this wine as her current favourite: The Mandrarossa Fiano 2007 from Sicily is a native varietal of Southern Italy that is low-yielding and early ripening, producing an un-oaked wine with loads of character and viscosity. Ripe, rich fruit and juicy acidity make this a delicious wine with antipasti, roasted white meats, rich seafood and creamy cheeses.

Marcus Sawatsky of Niche shares his love of Domaine Delesvaux clos de la Guiberderie Coteaux du Layon, St. Aubin 2003:

This is authentic wine.  No industrial yeasts are used, no enzymes are added to manicure the characters of the grape and the fruit is raised biodynamically to preserve the uniqueness of the terroir and the integrity of the land itself. 

Wine academia aside, this little Chenin Blanc, is sweet without being cloying, rich without being pretentious and downright ethereal on the palate. A portion of the grapes in this cuvee have been affected by the natural botrytis that thrives in these Anjou vineyards and the remaining ones are allowed to dry in the sun to raisin them slightly.  This is old school and low tech wine making at its best. 

Domaine Phillipe Delesvaux creates several labels from their 35 acres of vines, with my current love Domaine Delesvaux clos de la Guiberderie Coteaux du Layon, St. Aubin 2003.   The 2003 shows up as deep straw to golden in the glass, pushing that rich hue right to the rim of the glass.  The medium-plus level of viscocity clings to the glass and shows its superior breeding in its long legs.  The nose is bright, but slightly restrained, alluding to the fact that it may have some age on it, and the honeysuckle, field heather and Anjou pear sneak up on you as you swirl and sniff  it. 

In the mouth, I have enjoyed it’s angelic touch of stone fruit, marzipan, held up by a perfect nip of acidity.  Balance is the name of the game here, with a reined-in level of alcohol rarely experienced in this new age of global wine.  All initial reactions conclude in a unanimous decision.  This wine builds with time on the palate and collects into a perfectly built argument.  A classic finish built on vivid minerality and subtle botrytis flavours seems to go on just long enough to buy time until the next sip.  Grab it while  you can, for at only 30 dollars/ 500mls it can’t last for ever.

Rob Scales, Sommelier at Il Terrazzo Ristorante in Victoria shares his wine pick of the week:

Poggio al Tufo owned by Tommasi is producing a tasty little super-Tuscan called Rompicollo. From the volcanic soils of the Tuscan coast, this Cabernet-Sangiovese blend offers black currant, plum and red tree fruit flavor profiles.  This consumer friendly style caters to the new world palate with soft tannins, ripe fruit and cedary undertones.  Rompicollo over-delivers at the $22 price point.  Serve with full-bodied fare. Available at the BCLDB (+780585)

Glenn Barlow of BC Liquor Guys is seeing red:

"This time of year I’m thinking red from Southern France. My pick is the Gres Saint-Paul, Grange Philippe “Costa Santene” Grenache Syrah blend with peppery, black cherry, licorice, and smoked meat aromas. Good structure and weight with long orange rind notes on the finish. $22."

"A big-time sleeper of the vintage, the 2005 Cambon La Pelouse possesses a dark ruby-purple hue as well as an exotic, flamboyant, fruity bouquet of black cherries, wood smoke, tobacco, and spice. Lush, round, and opulent, it is ideal for drinking over the next five to six years." Robert Walker (leading U.S. wine critic).

Available at the Six Mile Liquor Store during their 2005 Bordeaux Pre-Release
(498 Island Hwy or call 250.391.4458 for details), $35.

Rioja Alavesa DOC, Spain

$24.99

 Out of the dozens of wines I tasted at last weekend’s Cornucopia, this one stood out (the stars all over my tasting book are proof).  Great value found here in this 100% Tempranillo, crafted from vines averaging 40 years in age. Aromas of spice, soft cinnamon, blackberry and a whiff of violets lead to smooth and lush dark berry, vanilla, a nd ripe plum, with a pleasing current of minerality throughout. Sophisticated and new-worldly styled Rioja.  With roasted pork loin sided with cherry compote, this will be a knockout.

Rioja Alavesa is the smallest of three sub-regions of Rioja region.  Its higher altitude and cooler temperature allows the grapes to achieve moderate acidity, and the soils of the vineyards are rich in clay and limestone, contributing to the mineral tones present in many of the wines from here.

*** 

By Treve Ring – EAT online wine editor

WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN

*          Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk

**       Good example of varietal type.  

***     Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended

****   Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended

***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!