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White - New World
Eden Valley, Australia
$28-31
Chardonnay is the world's most well known and widely planted white wine grape. In recent times, its popularity and mass-production spawned the ABC (“Anything But Chardonnay”) Backlash. The heyday of the giant, flabby uber-oaked Californian examples is – thankfully – over. But oak isn’t bad for chardonnay – in fact, it can be magic (hello white Burgundy). Successful new world oaked chards strive for stylish subtlety and balance– and if you want to taste what I mean, forget the ABC’s and pick up a bottle of Heggies.
There are seven different selections of Chardonnay clones at Heggies, with three favoured French variants comprising the majority of this wine. New and used French oak is tempered by vibrant tropical fruit. Richly textured and full bodied, with bright citrus, creamy pear, toasted almond spice and a lovely vein of minerality. A big vanillan finish can overwhelm a lot of foods, so pair weight with weight – think butter.
*** stars
By Treve Ring – online web editor
WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN
* Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk
** Good example of varietal type.
*** Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended
**** Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended
***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!
Okanagan Valley, BC
$22.90 - $25.00
When a little ol’ wine from little ol’ BC garners acclaim from one of the world’s leading wine authors, authorities and palates, it’s pretty freaking impressive. This past summer, Jancis Robinson, the author of Oxford Companion to Wine aka "the greatest wine book ever published” visited BC, and had this to say about the Tantalus Riesling 2008 (one of her top 10 Canadian wine picks):
“Truly outstanding. Very pure, fine Riesling aromas. Great spread of tight but not austere character across the palate. Great balance and length. This one should run and run.”
It’s easy to understand her enthusiasm. Vibrant citrus, green apple and fresh melon flavours, with juicy acidity, focused concentration and a lengthy finish make this wine a true pleasure to drink. Without a doubt, one of BC’s best wines. Long, cool fermentation has prolonged the fresh, crisp fruit – this Riesling is crafted from the 2nd press of the free run juice that makes up their Old Vine Riesling.
When I was up in the Okanagan this past September, I bought a case of this Riesling to drink now – plus a few bottles of the Old Vine Riesling to lay down for 3-5 years. The Tantalus Winery of my visit will look vastly different from the Tantalus of today. A brand-new ultra modern and architecturally stunning winery and tasting room were nearing completion when I visited, and I had the unexpected pleasure of a tour from winery GM (and jack of all trades) Jane Hatch. Jane, who I’m sure had a gazillion things going on preparing for harvest, graciously took the time to show us the stunning new 12,000 sq. ft building – LEED certified (BC’s first LEED winery) and window heavy – taking advantage of the view over their vines on the hillside below but also to maximize natural light whenever possible. One entire glass wall of the tasting room has been made to open, blurring the lines between inner and outer vineyard experience. There are also windows between the raised tasting room, and the tank room, allowing visitors to see production in process and become connected to the process. ****
By Treve Ring – EAT online wine editor
WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN
* Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk
** Good example of varietal type.
*** Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended
**** Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended
***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!
Casablanca Valley, Aconcagua, Chile
$22.00
Monday, September 28th is the annual Wines of Chile tasting event in Vancouver. 30 Chilean wineries will be represented – including Viña Errazuriz, one of Chile’s most lauded and respected. And it’s no wonder – they’ve had lots of time to perfect their skills. Don Maximiano Errazuriz founded the winery more than 128 years ago – in 1870!
This Chardonnay is named ‘Wild Ferment’ because of the use of a natural or ‘wild yeast’ ferment. Instead of adding packaged yeast, the pressed juice is allowed to slowly ferment in stainless steel with the indigenous vineyard yeasts in the area. The result is a complex aroma of spiced apple, pear and toasty lees. These notes are echoed in the rich, medium bodied palate, along with honey, mineral, herbs, nectarine skin and ashy lees. The mouthfeel is creamy, yet it finishes crisp. Very unique and different. Try with a seafood risotto. ***
Check out www.ccltd.ca/winesofchile for details on next week’s Wines of Chile tasting and dinner event.
Reviewed by Treve Ring
WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN
* Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk
** Good example of varietal type.
*** Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended
**** Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended
***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!
Niagara Peninsula, Ontario
$18.99 BCLS
You don’t see too many Niagara wines in the BC market - in fact, in this province it’s easy to forget that BC isn’t the centre of the Canadian winemaking universe (sorry!). This is proof positive that our Eastern kin are excelling at expressing their terroir as well. Château des Charmes is one of the larger wineries in Niagara, and founder Paul Bosc pioneered this unique Chardonnay clone in the Niagara Peninsula. The area now excels at Musqué, the unique grape being well suited to the soils and climate. This full-bodied charmer is unoaked, allowing the ripe fruit flavours to shine. Aromatic honeysuckle and spice lead to tangy citrus and sweet, zippy melon-apple flavours. This lush white has an intoxicating spice quality (white pepper?), lovely honeyed texture throughout, and a nice lengthy finish. Pair with poultry or lighter pork dishes and spice-roasted squash – perfect for fall. *** and a half
By Treve Ring
WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN
* Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk
** Good example of varietal type.
*** Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended
**** Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended
***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!
Wine writer Treve Ring assesses two Okanagan recent releases - one white, one red - from Pentâge Winery. Here is the white.
Paul Gardner and Julie Rennie’s boutique Pentâge Winery www.pentage.com rests on 35 acres along Penticton’s Skaha Lake. Production is limited to only 5000 cases a year, and their small-lot releases sell out quickly. Their newest vineyard, monikered ‘The Dirty Dozen’ was planted three years ago – and wine watchers (me!) are eagerly awaiting the first wines from the Roussanne, Marsanne, Viognier, Petite Syrah, Zinfandel, Malbec, Mourvedre, Grenache and Tempranillo planted there.
Their current releases (9 whites and 7 reds annually) are from their first vineyard, planted in 1997. And what lovely wines are being handcrafted from these 10 year old vines. The perfumed aromas of the 2008 Gewurztraminer ($18) skyrocket out of the glass – lush lychee and grapefruit notes lead to a palate of ripe sweet apricot, citrus and mineral, a full, rounded mouthfeel and a lengthy finish. Though there is a lot of fruit sweetness here, the wine finishes dry and crisp – delish. ***
WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN
* Basic drinkable, uncomplicated plonk
** Good example of varietal type.
*** Very good quality, represents the regional style/terroir, worth seeking out. Recommended
**** Exceptional, above average, top of class. Highly Recommended
***** Among the top wines in the world. Worth traveling for. What are you waiting for? Buy it right now!
Greg Hays from Cafe Brio shares this pick:
Although this is only their second, the Meyers have crafted what must surely be one of the finest Chardonnays in Canada, and this is just their entry level Chard. They also make a "Micro Cuvee" that is mind boggling for $65. The vineyard has a northerly aspect which allows the grapes to mature gracefully rather than quickly. The long, slow ripening process results in grapes with a vast spectrum of flavours and an elegant minerality. More closely resembling Burgundy than Napa, it has an intense nose with hints of wood smoke, citrus, melon and peach. Quite dry on the palate with attractive weight in a medium to full-bodied style and marked by a streak of refreshing acidity. Beautifully balanced with a long, lovely finish. Outstanding B.C. Chardonnay. $30 from the winery,
3.1 acres producing only 330 cases.
Click here to visist the Meyer Family Vineyard online.
This pick comes from Colleen Kennaird at The Local Liquor Store on Salt Spring Island:
“This is a fabulous Pinot Gris, lightly golden in colour, has lively peach and pear flavours with a crisp finish. Always consistent, never disappointing from year to year. Great value for the superior wine in the bottle. I love it all year round. Great to always have a bottle in my fridge.” CSPC# 536227
Doug Russell from Smugglers Cove Liquor Store shares this current favourite: "The Howling Bluff Sauvignon Blanc 08 from Naramata Bench is a blend of saugvignon blanc and semillon with an earthy, mineral characteristic. Flavours of guava and passion fruit intermingled with citrus. It's enjoyable now, but will also reward a cellaring of five years." $18.99
Click here to for Howling Bluff's website.
Bruce Stuart, owner of The Wine Barrel at 644 Broughton St. looks ahead to warmer weather with this wine pick: "This off dry white blend has good crisp acidity that makes it an absolute classic summer wine. Pair it with food or just with a glass. Priced at $16.99 and available at all three of Greater Victoria's VQA BC Wine Stores."
Michelle Bouffard, co-owner and certified sommelier at house wine in Vancouver makes this timely wine choice:
The market might be down but there is no reason why you should stop drinking wine. There are plenty of great values to be had. The Cono Sur Viognier is our latest find. Intrinsically Viognier with vibrant white peach and ginger aromas. Its juicy flavours will leave your palate refreshed and begging for another sip. A great wine to bring to parties during the holidays and a great match with Turkey. $10.99 (BC CSPC# 566836)
Read more of Michelle's great ideas on wine at www.housewine.ca
